(click on the links in the text for more photos)
(click on the links in the text for more photos)
Pictures and text by Will Skelton
Hidden in the recesses of the Cumberland Plateau is a true gem of a trail that deserves to be ranked high on any list of Tennessee hiking trails: the Obed River segment of the Cumberland Trail, between Devil’s Breakfast Table on Daddy’s Creek and Nemo Bridge on the Obed River. About 14 miles of hiking that takes you from spectacular high rock wall overlooks of rivers and valleys to level hiking on an old railroad bed along the roaring Obed River to undulating walking through forests. In June the trail is also blessed with ripe blueberries at the overlooks (one is even named “Blueberry Overlook”) and white rhododendron blossoms along the creek valleys.
Not many people have backpacked this trail, and in finalizing a Harvey Broome Group weekend backpack I found out one reason why - the logistics are complicated. Because much of the trail is in the Catoosa Wildlife Management area, and no cars are allowed overnight at the Devil’s Breakfast Table trailhead, you’ve either got to spend a lot of time shuttling or hire someone to do it. And overnight camping is only allowed along the river, which limits the campsites because the river is inaccessible from the bluffs where much of the trail is located. And water sources are limited unless you use the Obed River water (all the time putting out of your mind the fact that Crossville’s sewage treatment plant discharges upstream).
But, as eight HBG members found on the weekend of June 30-July 1, it’s all worth it (Will Skelton as trip leader, Diane Madison, Ron Shreve, TJ Tolnas, Barbara Allen, Ray Payne, BJ Perlack, and Ericka White). The shuttle was arranged through Jim Sutton of CBC Adventures in Wartburg (for Cycling, Boating and Climbing; we suggested he add an “H” for hiking; for reference his phone is 423-346-2222). Jim has an old, old pickup truck, but it has character, including a “Dr. Ralph Stanley for President” bumper sticker (someone in our group reports that Stanley is a famous bluegrass musician), that groaned and whined under our weight but got us to Devil’s Breakfast Table.
Highlights of the backpack included several opportunities to take refreshing dips in the Obed River, clear water, generally perfect depth for safe swimming, and, best of all, perfect temperature (unlike Appalachian streams that tend to often be too cold for prolonged lazing). Of course, the warm water meant this was a summer trip at low elevations, with concomitant ticks and lots of chiggers, and even a couple of copperheads seen at an appropriate distance.
The overlooks were all wonderful, but “OhmyGod” was a favorite, the blue Obed River far below, cradled among endless green forests and gray bluffs. And, of course, that overlook produced the expected jokes; I asked Erika what it was like as I approached the overlook and she was heading back up to the trail. You get one guess for her response. At another we saw a turkey buzzard perched on a tree down below, spreading its wings to dry perhaps, something no one had seen before. We also enjoyed hearing Ray Payne pronounce “Wartburg” in the authentic German way, he makes it sound impressive, instead of the rather unbecoming English pronunciation we know. Dinner was cooked on huge flat rocks over the Obed, below some rapids, and just before a heavy rain drove everyone to their tents around 9 pm.
